Green Tiger Lotus (Nymphaea zenkeri 'Green') Care Guide
The Green Tiger Lotus (Nymphaea zenkeri 'Green') is a bulb water lily (Nymphaeaceae) grown for its broad spotted leaves and night-blooming flowers in freshwater tanks.
Compiled by Aquairi from published sources · Published · Updated
Overview
The Green Tiger Lotus is the green-leaved form of the tiger lotus, a bulb water lily of the family Nymphaeaceae. It grows from a tuber and produces both submerged leaves near the bulb and large floating leaves on long stems, along with fragrant night-blooming flowers. Leaf color ranges from green to red-brown with varying purple spotting.
Taxonomy
- Family: Nymphaeaceae
- Genus: Nymphaea
- Scientific name: Nymphaea zenkeri 'Green'
- Common name: green tiger lotus
Habitat
Tiger lotus plants of this group originate from Africa, in particular West Africa, where Nymphaea lotus grows as a rhizomatous perennial in warm waters and produces nocturnal, fragrant flowers.
Tank requirements
- Temperature: 22-28 °C (72-82 °F)
- pH: 5.5-7.5
- GH: 3-14 °dGH
- Height: 20-50+ cm
- Lighting: medium
- CO2: not required
- Substrate: nutrient-rich
- Placement: midground / centerpiece
Growth and care
Growth is medium and the plant is undemanding. A nutrient-rich bottom encourages strong growth and large leaves. To keep the plant in its submerged form, surface-reaching floating leaves are trimmed; otherwise the lotus will increasingly produce lily-pad leaves at the surface.
Propagation
When growing well, the parent bulb may form small daughter bulbs that can be detached and replanted. The bulb should be only partly buried so that shoots stay above the substrate, as a fully buried bulb can rot.
Propagating Green Tiger Lotus (Nymphaea zenkeri 'Green')
Overview
Green Tiger Lotus is the green-leaved form of the tiger lotus, a bulb (tuber) plant in the genus Nymphaea. Water lilies grow from a rhizome that can be tuberous, and the plant carries two leaf forms: somewhat heart-shaped submersed leaves near the bulb, and long-stemmed floating leaves that rest at the surface like lily pads. As a centerpiece plant it draws most of its nutrients through the roots, so it favours a nutrient-rich substrate.
Propagation Method
Green Tiger Lotus is propagated vegetatively, not from topping cuttings. A healthy parent bulb forms small daughter bulbs (side tubers) that can be detached and replanted, and the plant can also send out a runner that produces a baby plant on one side without a bulb. Both routes give you a new, genetically identical plant.
- Daughter bulbs / side tubers detached from a thriving parent bulb
- Runner-borne plantlets that emerge nearby through the substrate
Step-by-Step
- Wait until the parent bulb is established and vigorous before harvesting offsets.
- Locate a daughter bulb or a runner plantlet that has its own small leaves and roots.
- Gently detach the daughter bulb or separate the runner plantlet from the parent.
- Plant the offset in nutrient-rich substrate, leaving the top of the bulb exposed so it does not rot.
- Trim a few floating pads from both plants to encourage bushier submerged growth.
Conditions for Healthy Growth
- Temperature 22-28 C with pH 5.5-7.5 and GH 3-14.
- Medium lighting; the plant grows submerged but will throw floating pads under strong light.
- Nutrient-rich substrate, as this is a root feeder; CO2 is not required.
- Leave the crown of the bulb above the substrate.
Maintenance
To keep a compact, submerged form, clip the lily pad at the base of its stem closest to the bulb. Continuously pruning a few floating leaves keeps the plant from growing too tall and encourages it to grow bushier rather than reaching for the surface. Aim to trim roughly every two weeks.
Common Challenges
If you bury the entire bulb it can rot instead of sprouting, so always leave the top exposed. Floating leaves shading the tank are common with bright light; manage them with regular trimming. A weak parent bulb will not produce daughter bulbs, so let it establish before expecting offsets.
Propagating Red Tiger Lotus (Nymphaea zenkeri 'Red')
Overview
Red Tiger Lotus is a tuberous water lily of the family Nymphaeaceae. Like other Nymphaea, it is an aquatic, rhizomatous or tuberous perennial herb that stores energy in an underground bulb-like tuber and sends up mostly arrowhead-shaped leaves. Tropica classifies the tiger lotus as a bulb/onion plant that reproduces via bulbs and daughter plants, so propagation centres on that storage organ rather than on cutting stems.
In a nutrient-rich substrate the plant first forms numerous underwater leaves before pushing leaves toward the surface. To keep the compact, deep-red submerged form, surface leaves are removed rather than left to float.
Propagation Method
The reliable method is vegetative: separate the daughter bulbs and side shoots that the mother tuber produces, then replant each offset as a new plant. Because the bulb is the engine of growth, healthy offsets root quickly and grow into full specimens on their own.
Step-by-Step
- Lift the mother plant or gently expose the base in the substrate to find daughter bulbs and side shoots around the main tuber.
- Choose an offset that carries its own roots and one or more leaves.
- Detach it cleanly from the parent, keeping the offset's roots intact.
- Replant the offset in nutrient-rich substrate, burying the bulb's roots but leaving the growing crown uncovered.
- Push a root tab near the new bulb to feed this heavy root feeder.
- Trim any leaf that reaches the surface to keep the submerged red form.
Conditions for Healthy Growth
Tropica rates the tiger lotus as a medium-light plant with a low CO2 demand and medium growth rate, thriving in a nutrient-rich bottom substrate. In the knowledge base this red variety is listed for 22-28 C, pH 5.5-7.5 and a wide GH range, with a high nutrient demand met largely through the roots.
Maintenance
Trim floating pads and overly long leaves at the base every couple of weeks to hold the plant in its submerged form and to redirect energy into new submerged leaves and offsets. Replenish root tabs periodically so the bulb keeps producing daughter bulbs instead of stalling.
Common Challenges
- Leaves racing to the surface: a natural habit of Nymphaea; cut surface leaves to keep the compact red look.
- Slow or no offsets: usually a sign of a poor substrate, raise fertility and add root tabs.
- Pale colour: too little light or nutrients dulls the wine-red leaves; provide medium light and a rich base.